The drive from Inverness took us through some of the most breathtaking scenery we’ve witnessed in Scotland this far. Not to mention, less traffic and a more open road made for a much smoother drive. While some sketchy single-track (one lane) roads and tunnels proved a bit nail-biting, we made it over some of the Highland’s most impressive countryside. We even spied some Highland ‘hairy coos’, but we lacked a safe option to pull over for a closer look. We settled for snapping a quick photo out the window and kept driving.

A happy detour wrong turn

Along the way, we missed a turn and accidentally meandered down a single-track country road looking for a place to turn around. All the while, the map app is repeating, “proceed to route.” (I’ve never understood that. Shouldn’t the robot navigator instruct you to pull over and figure out where you went wrong?)

Anyway, in our attempts to “proceed to route,” we stumbled upon the Lochcarron Weavers Heritage Shop in Wester Ross, and stopped to stretch our legs and see what it was all about. The shop, a decent size for its out-in-the-middle-of-nowhere location, displayed a seemingly endless array of clan tartans, wool jumpers (sweaters), scarves, and lots of Harris Tweed hats. The shop’s personnel wore tartan plaids and seemed absolutely exuberant to see us and answer our questions.

I splurged on a lightweight, dark gray wool poncho, while Bret picked out a black, herringbone Scottish flat cap. The Harris Tweed newsboy-style caps are handwoven, quilted inside and incredibly warm. They also carried tartan samples for many of the clans. While we’d seen other shops carrying Scottish clan regalia, this shop felt local and genuine. Needless to say, our detour did not disappoint.

Isle of Skye

Our attempts at booking a ferry to Skye failed, so we made due with a quick morning trip before visiting Eilean Donan Castle. We ventured northwest and crossed the Skye bridge, deciding to limit our time due to a long day of driving ahead. We browsed some gift shops and grabbed a bite at a local food truck before heading to our next stop. Frigid wind and rain, coupled with lots of other tourists played a factor in our decision to hit the road, as well.

Eilean Donan Castle

Eilean Donan Castle is likely one of the most iconic castles in Scotland, with its foreboding visage and sweeping long bridge, perched on the rocks overlooking Dornie and guarding against Viking invasions. Eilean Donan made several motion picture appearances including Highlander, Bonnie Prince Charlie, Loch Ness, and Elizabeth. The 13th century castle changed greatly over the years, increasing and decreasing in size, and sustaining heavy damages that reduced it to ruins during the Jacobite uprisings in the 18th century. 200 years later, the Macrae Clan started a 20 year restoration of the castle, completing the project in 1932. Eilean Donan is now operated by the Conchra Charitable Trust.

Photographs and video once inside the castle’s walls are strictly forbidden, so you’ll have to use a bit of imagination if you don’t pay the £12 entry fee. We were surprised by the interior decor and furniture, definitely more reminiscent of the 1930s than what we expected. However, I loved the kitchen and appreciated the still wax figures depicting dinner service preparations. All in all, we wished we had just peaked around the exterior, instead of going inside.

Road to the Isles

The Road to the Isles begins in Fort William, a popular town with a major train depot and stopping point for mountaineers heading to Ben Nevis and other munroes. We wandered a bit, grabbed a burger, and drove north to Arisaig. Arisaig is a charming, tiny harbor town of 300 residents just eight miles south of Mallaig.

We rented an old cottage tucked back in the woods and a 10 minute walk to the cove. The spacious stone cottage boasted walls 3 ft thick covered with whitewashed, rough-hewn boards. Slate floors, butcher block countertops, and a large farmhouse table in the kitchen seemed to say, “Brew a cuppa and stay a while.”

With three bedrooms, three bathrooms, informal living room, formal living room, and two fireplaces, our woodland cottage could comfortably sleep 7. We especially enjoyed having a washer and a dryer onsite.

Quick morning jaunt to Mallaig

Mallaig, a Highland west coast port in Morar, faces the Isle of Skye and is accessible via ferry from Skye or the Road to the Isles (from Ft. William). Mallaig, home to passenger train and ferry ports, bustled with activity as tourists filled the shops, restaurants, and bars. We ate lunch, wandered in and out of shops, and left within 2 hours anxious to escape the crowds.

Golfing in Paradise

On our way back to Arisaig, we opted for the coastal road and happened upon the most spectacular coastline bordered by miles of lush fields, sheep, and…a golf course keeping vigil over the landscape. After some initial touristy gawking we made a mental note to look into a tee time the next day. It turns out that Traigh (pronounced “try”) is a local 9-hole course sorting a mere £24 per person and £10 to rent clubs. We fell in love with the course and spectacular seascapes over two days of play. Of all the courses we’ve played, this one tops them all! When the views and surroundings overtake the lost balls, missed putts, and botched drives, you know you’ve found something special. Traigh Golf Course is a hidden gem.

Dining in Arisaig

The Old Library Restaurant and Lodge is known for their consistently delicious meals, but the incredible service kept us returning. Owners David and Peggy treated us like locals and offered great tips for sightseeing and even recommendations for our route back to Edinburgh. Although I didn’t capture everything we ordered, I did snap a photo of their haddock and chips (yes, we continue to eat fish and chips 😂).

Wild and not so wild…

Evening walks revealed small herds of deer as well as domestic sheep. These deer behave more like our mule deer than the solitary whitetails we see in Eastern Washington. They move silently in family herds and watched us through the trees. Nevertheless, we were amazed at their almost elk-like size and grace as they hopped across the fields.

Of course, it is tick season in Scotland. Unlike the easy-to-see deer ticks were used to in Washington, the wee buggers in Scotland are barely visible to middle-aged eyes. I felt one crawling on me after one of our walks, which prompted a full-scale frenzy that included an emergency shower (and another dram of whisky).

The next evening, Bret had two of them headfirst on his arms and one crawling across his leg. Tweezers did the trick, followed by yet another emergency shower and embarrassing tick-check.

Walking along the harbor at sunset, serene water and sleeping vessels welcomed the day’s end.

We leave Sunday for our 180-mile trip back to Edinburgh. We can’t help but feel a bit gloomy leaving this Scottish paradise, but we will return someday.