Days 5-7…
Inverness, the cultural capital of the Scottish Highlands, is flanked by the Moray Firth and the River Ness. Generations of farms fill the ancient spaces surrounding the city.
Anxious to escape traffic (and wash our clothing), we booked a charming vacation rental in Culbokie, about 15 minutes outside of Inverness. Our rental, a tractor-shed turned boutique accommodation, sits on a farm owned by a lovely family. When we parked the car, Louise (the young matriarch) pulled up in a bucket tractor and hopped out to greet us. She, husband Donald, and their two children lovingly work the 70+ acre family farm, speckled with livestock and lush fields. Luckily, we arrived during lambing season, so the cuteness factor was through the roof!
The cheerful rental was modern, yet cozy, and beautifully decorated with a wood-burning stove poised to cut the chill of Spring in the Highlands. Aside from the impressive interior, the personal details they included made us feel special. These included a new bag of dark roast coffee, milk, shortbread biscuits, and tea. Louise had remembered that we like coffee and provided both a French press and stovetop espresso maker (the unit typically just has a kettle for tea).
Culloden Battlefield
in 1746, the Jacobite rising met a tragic end at the Battle of Culloden. Around 1,500 Jacobite troops (most of which were Highland clans led by Bonnie Prince Charles) succumbed to the Government in a battle that lasted less than an hour. Only 50 Government troops perished. It’s this battle that changed Highland culture forever.
We spent four hours walking the frontlines of both sides, reading the historical markers, pausing before clan headstones, and taking in the Culloden Battlefield Museum.
After a long afternoon in Culloden, we headed back to Inverness for dinner at MacGregor’s. They were hosting a whiskey tasting experience later that night, but we opted for a quiet dinner and made our way back to our rental to sit by the fire. Once again, our dinner consisted of Cullen Skink, Haddock & Chips and Steak & Stout Pie…and I’m certain it will happen again. In Scotland all of those dishes are pretty standby and classic. In other words, they’re always good!
Day 7 started with a lazy morning, late breakfast of French press coffee and poached eggs upon buttery, toasted crumpets. The sun emerged after a few gray days, so we solicited Google for some nearby golf options. We settled on Invergordon Golf Course and set out for our 25 minute trek along the Moray Firth.
The course is tucked up near the main highway, but peaceful, laid back, and well-groomed. We chatted up the jovial proprietress and some well-natured local boys in the bar while we paid our green fees.
We only played 9 holes, and I was absolutely freezing by the end of the round (it was about 13 Celsius). We left the course and headed into Dingwall for an early dinner.
Guess what we had for dinner? Yes, Steak & Ale Pie and Haddock &. Chips (served with peas) 😂! Dingwall is a sleepy little town with a moving World War I tribute, family-run restaurants, stunning architecture, and unique shops.
Day 8 begins early as we check out of our tractor shed in Culbokie and head for our next adventure along the northwest coast of Scotland. Our next stop takes us along the Road to the Isles.