4. Edinburgh & Stirling

Our first full day…

We slept-in this morning and had a leisurely breakfast at the hotel. I had the full Scottish breakfast (complete with potato scones, haggis, streaky bacon, eggs, grilled tomatoes, and mushrooms…I skipped the baked beans) and Bret enjoyed pancakes and eggs.

Following breakfast the hotel concierge encouraged us to visit the Royal Mile. He suggested we catch the bus, which stops just at the bottom of the hill. It was a 30-minute ride, but it only cost £6, and we didn’t have to navigate downtown Edinburgh.

It was chilly and windy today during our time in Old Town, and throngs of tourists were heading up to Edinburgh Castle. We purchased our tickets for a later entrance and then explored the Royal Mile sites for a few hours before our self-guided castle tour time.

Our first stop — The Scotch Whiskey Experience! Remember, it was cold and we were about to trek into an old castle with hundreds of other tourists. Instead of paying for the full whiskey tour, we created our own experience — we went directly to the elegant, warm-lit whisky bar and let a knowledgeable young bartender guide us through a whiskey flight. It was a blast!

After that we explored the tourist-trap shops…although I couldn’t convince Bret to buy the hat, I did manage to purchase myself a cashmere headband to warm my frozen ears.

St. Giles Cathedral…

For lunch we visited a chippy and sat with a couple visiting from France.

Edinburgh Castle

(Photography inside wasn’t allowed in most cases, so the photo gallery below will feel a bit random.) Note: The three cannon rounds for the Mons Meg cannon weigh 330 lbs each!

After a long bus ride (in rush-hour traffic) back to Dalmahoy, we rushed to our dinner reservation, enjoyed a lovely supper in the dining room and sipped on a smooth single malt.

Wallace National Monument

Our second day

We drove to Stirling to view the William Wallace National Monument (and unbeknownst to us, get in a good workout). After hiking up the steep hill to the base of the monument, we set off to climb all 246 steps along a spiral staircase to the top of the 220 ft tower. Our legs were dead, but the breathtaking views of the valley and Stirling Castle were worth the fatigue. An older lady we passed on the staircase said, “It’ll be fine, dear…just when you think you’re going to die, there’s an exhibit to see and rest your legs.” She was spot on!


Stirling Castle

Following our hike up and down the Monument stairs, we decided on a “leisurely” visit to the majestic castle we’d spied from the tower. Getting there proved a bit harrowing through the narrow cobblestone streets of two-way traffic (with cars parked on both sides, allowing for one car to pass through the opening). I am certain that the terrified looks on our faces painted a clear picture that Yanks were driving.

Although it was quite windy, the clear skies allowed us to see all the way back to our previous perch on the Monument tower. I can’t say our stroll was leisurely, as there were many stairs and inclines, but we were so intent on seeking out the ancient nooks and crannies that we didn’t mind. Not to mention, we stopped for tea in the cafe at the end of our walk. Bret enjoyed a delicious carrot walnut cake with thick buttercream, and I smothered a fruit scone with clotted cream and strawberry preserves. It was so good!



Dalhousie Castle Hotel & Dinner in the Dungeon

Located just 8 miles south of Edinburgh, stands the Dalhousie Castle (built by the Ramsay Family in the 13th century). Additions were constructed in the 15th century, and the castle’s red stone bricks were quarried from the opposite bank of the South Esk River on the castle property.

After a full day of exploring Stirling, we were more than ready for a break and a special 5-course meal at the castle’s Dungeon Restaurant. It was quite an experience, and the food was incredible.

Dinner began with cocktails in the library while we selected each course. Our server then carried our drinks down to the dungeon as we followed. I’ve included snapshots of the options we selected from and photos of three courses. The portions were smaller than what we are used to in the States, but they were perfect! The well-timed serving between courses allowed us to savor every bite and take our time with each course.

Breakfast the next morning was equally special!

Next stop…St. Andrews Old Course!